Editor’s note: this post was updated on Oct. 12, 2009 to add in photos lost over time. Click here to see construction photos.

Thursday night, I finished with Duct Tape Messenger Bag v. 2.0, and in all of its glory it actually works better than the first one. I definitely learned some things about this project, especially about new materials I worked with and different ideas I have for future versions.
So, if you’ve not read the first duct tape messenger bag how-to, I suggest you do that now so you’re not behind. I’m writing this version assuming that everyone has so far, and that way I won’t have to go explaining again on how to do EVERYTHING! If you’ve read it (and just to be sure, open the first duct tape messenger bag post in a new window or tab so you can revert back to the old one if you have to) then you can continue. Otherwise, prepared to be a little lost.
For this messenger bag, I decided to take a new approach. Reinforcement was the name of the game, and frankly, I’m glad for it. Also, size has been a considerable issue as well, and something I didn’t necessarily consider with the last one. For instance, the bag itself was mostly large enough unless I was carrying say, my wireless keyboard around. Otherwise, we had problems. BIG problems if you ask me. Which, you are since you’re here. Also, I had to consider some other impractical things, like the placement of pockets and flaps.
The last time, I did everything in panels. One panel for the inside front, one panel for the back, one extra panel for the flap, etc. etc. This time, I considered that all those panels were wasteful and caused the need for the use of more tape. And that frankly, is not a good thing. However, after thinking about the reinforcement problem AFTER I made the first large panel, I ended up wasting more tape anyhow. But I’ll get back to that in a minute or so.
So, this messenger bag presented me with a new challenge– how do I a) make it larger but not overly so (which I did anyhow) and b) what didn’t I do last time.
One of the things I didn’t do last time was invest in velcro patches. These can be purchased in the crafts section of Wally World (Wal-Mart) or other fine retailers like K-Mart (I would hope) and Michaels (if they don’t have them, shoot someone. Its a crafts MEGASTORE!)
Also, I didn’t invest enough in color. While the two-toned classic silver and the red were good for the last bag, this one needed to be a bit classier. In other words, I wanted to be able to carry this thing through the airport without people staring at me like a hobo. Which I’m sure will anyhow, but that is another post for another time.
Ok, materials list.
1) Duct Tape. You’re gonna need a lot of it for this time around folks. I would suggest, just to be on the safe side, the following. 2 rolls of black, 2 rolls of silver and a roll of blue. You won’t be using too much blue, but the black and the silver are the base colors you will need.
2) Mesh board. This is the stuff that purses made out of yarn typically use. You can buy these in large (at least 11″x14″) sheets for typically under a dollar. I paid 76 cents a pop for them at Wal-Mart. Grab between 3 to 5 depending on your level of reinforcement you’d like to have.
3) Velcro. You should only need one pack of Velcro. I paid $2.44 for a pack at Wal-Mart, and I’m not sure on the pricing at other stores.
And now, some construction thoughts.
First and foremost, you’re going to need to build this sucker literally from the ground up. If you are like me and have made a bag in the past and have been using it for more than six months, there can be no reusing of the bag. By this point, it should have some signs of wear and tear. Mine sure did. The straps were coming apart, and then there is the issue of reinforcement, so lets assume we’re starting from the ground up.
Start with the mesh panels. Measure out how wide and tall you want your bag, and have a large enough workspace in order to do this in. For me, I made the first large sheet of fabric with the duct tape before I bought the mesh, so I went ahead and just made the large piece.
What I would reccommend doing is to place the panels where you think you’ll be folding the bag together, then place the panels on the sticky side up of the tape. So what you’ll wanna do when making the large piece is to make the bottom pieces first, figure out where the folds will be, then place the mesh on top of that. THEN, and only then, will you want to layer on the tape over the mesh.
Now, here’s a warning: this stuff isn’t exactly easy to work with. It will bend under pressure, and will tend to stay that way. So unless you want your bag to be conical shaped, be careful.Also, I would suggest taking all measures possible to keep the bottom as smooth as possible when placing the mesh panels. You really don’t want to have to make another bottom piece for the fabric, do you?Now, when layering on the top piece of fabric (do it strip by strip, I don’t suggest making it beforehand that way you can contol what the tape will do around the mesh,) make sure that a) the top strips of tape stick to the mesh and b) that the top strips are long enough to form a mold around the mesh layering. This will act to reinforce the bag AND allow you a bit more control on how the bag will ultimately turn out. The other benefit of using the mesh is the folding itself: it makes it easier. I’d suggest leaving between 1/8″ and 1/4″ between each mesh panel.
Now, the side panels. Depending on the size of your particular bag, you’re going to want to measure out the mesh board. Then, in a wonderful fashion, you can cover those with strips. Do it for both, and then attach them to the bottom mesh panel, leaving room to fold them up. If you want side pockets on these panels, add them now and remember to keep enough room for you to put tape on boths sides AND attach the strap.
Now, for the almost finishing touches: start folding the bag together, taking care to keep the flap that covers the top and the front out of the way as much as possible.In order to keep everything from collapsing on you when you’re doing this, here’s a handy suggestion: take a few pieces of tape to use temporarily, and attach one on each side to hold it up while its going. Then, tape up the sides with either a single or double layer of tape on either side, and make sure its secure. Rinse and repeat on the other side.
Onto the strap. There’s two ways of doing this, either with its advantages and disadvantages. One the one hand, you can tape the straps on the outside, allowing you to make sure they are taped up well and can sort of stay out of the way. Also, it gives you the ability to lengthen or shorten the strap with more tape or by cutting the strap. This isn’t an exact science, to be quite honest. I’ve used the tape and test variation to figure out the length of the strap, but I’m sure there’s better ways. I just don’t have a sewer’s measuring tape to do it with.
Another way of taping the strap is on the inside. The advantage is that the strap stay somewhat out of the way when completed, but when I tried doing this with the last bag it didn’t work. Also, the strap tends to get in the way during construction, and you have to make the sides and the strap one piece basically. Not exactly the greatest idea. Straps can be replaced. Sides are much harder.
I went with the first way, taping on the outside, and did trial and error to find a length I was comfortable with. I’ll probably have to shorten the strap by another 4-6″ still, but it got done. The strap itself is a complicated process of carefully making the fabric, in long strips, connecting the sticky sides together and hoping, normally. But here’s a tip.
Typically, your strap will maybe be as long as the main piece of fabric for your bag. What you’ll do is add a few inches on one side, cut it after making the fabric, and use that as your strap. Just remember to not put the mesh in the strap. It will not make for easy carrying situations to be frank.
Onto the most hated part: velcro.
Velcro isn’t exactly an easy material to cut through when the sides are stuck together. Especially when you have the adhesive-backed kind. (The only kind you can use on duct tape, since iron-on and duct tape don’t exactly play well together…)
So thus, you’re at a paradox. I hope you have a strong, sharp pair of scissors, because there’s not a great way to do this unless you have a chalk line. Otherwise, the strips you make to stick on the bag will not be exactly even and look good.
Cut the best you can, pull of the backing and apply where needed. Remember to line up the flap and the velcro tightly to the bag as possible so it stays straght. Otherwise you might have to do it all over again. Just a friendly thought.
Lessons learned First off, making the pockets before putting the bag together is always a good idea. You can judge depth, height and width of the pockets much easier.
Secondly, get a cloth measuring tape. The kind you see tailors using in movies to measure suits. Those will definitely, positively come in handy.
Finally, and most importantly, buy more than you think you will need. While you might only need a two rolls of black instead of three, you can still use that extra roll for aother project later. AND BE CAREFUL WITH THE MESH. While its cheap, it can sometimes be difficult to work with.

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HOW TO – Make a duct tape messenger bag v. 2.0
Kevin writes – “Here’s a new, improved version of my duct tape messenger bag I made back at the end of September and October.” – Link. Related: See lots of other duct tape projects – Link….
Manny C
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I just saw this last night… Walmart has large 12-inch wide rolls of duct tape.
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